Fort San Felipe, the oldest fort in the New World, is a popular attraction. Philip II of Spain ordered its construction in 1564, a task that took 33 years to complete. Built with 8-foot-thick (2m) walls, the fort was virtually impenetrable, and the moat surrounding it was treacherous--the Spaniards sharpened swords and embedded them in coral below the surface of the water to discourage enemies from fording the moat. The doors of the fort are only 4 feet (1m) high, another deterrent to swift passage. During Trujillo's rule, Fort San Felipe was used as a prison.

Isabel de Torres (tel. 809/970-0501), a tower with a fort built when Trujillo was in power, affords a panoramic view of the Amber Coast from a point near the top, 2,595 feet (779m) above sea level. You reach the observation point by cable car (teleférico), a 10-minute ascent. Once here, you're also treated to 7 acres (3 hectares) of botanical gardens. The round-trip costs RD$100 (US$6.25) for adults, RD$50 (US$3.15) for children age 12 and under. The aerial ride is operated Thursday to Tuesday from 9am to 5pm. There's often a long wait in line for the cable car, and at certain times it's closed for repairs, so check at your hotel before you head out.

You can see a collection of rare amber specimens at the Museo de Ambar Dominicano, Calle Duarte 61 (tel. 809/586-2848), near Puerto Plata's Central Park. It's open Monday to Fri 8am to 6pm, Saturday 9am to 5pm. Guided tours in English are offered. Admission is RD$40 (US$2.50) for adults, RD$7 (45¢) for children.

Prieto Tours, Av. Francia 125 (tel. 809/685-0102), one of the capital's leading tour operators, offers a 3-hour tour of the Colonial Zone, leaving most mornings at 9am and again at 3pm if there's sufficient demand; it costs $35. A 6-hour tour visits the Colonial Zone, the Columbus Lighthouse, the Aquarium, and the city's modern neighborhoods; the $50 cost includes lunch and entrance to several well-known museums and monuments. About an hour of the tour is devoted to shopping.

The Relics of Columbus & A Colonial Era--Santo Domingo--a treasure trove of historic, sometimes crumbling, buildings--is undergoing a major government-sponsored restoration. The old town is still partially enclosed by remnants of its original city wall. The narrow streets, old stone buildings, and forts are like nothing else in the Caribbean, except perhaps Old San Juan. The only thing missing is the clank of the conquistadors' armor.

Old and modern Santo Domingo meet at the Parque Independencia, a big city square whose most prominent feature is its Altar de la Patria, a national pantheon dedicated to the nation's heroes, Duarte, Sanchez, and Mella, who are all buried here. These men led the country's fight for freedom from Haiti in 1844. As in provincial Spanish cities, the square is a popular family gathering place on Sunday afternoon. At the entrance to the plaza is El Conde Gate, named for the count (El Conde) de Penalva, the governor who resisted the forces of Admiral Penn, the leader of a British invasion. It was also the site of the March for Independence in 1844, and holds a special place in the hearts of Dominicans.

In the shadow of the Alcázar, La Atarazana is a fully restored section of one of the New World's finest arsenals. It extends for a city block, holding within it a catacomb of shops, art galleries, boutiques, and some good regional and international restaurants.

Just behind river moorings is the oldest street in the New World, Calle Las Damas (Street of the Ladies), named not because it was the red light district, but for the elegant ladies of the viceregal court who used to promenade here in the evening. It's lined with colonial buildings.

Just north is the chapel of Our Lady of Remedies, where the first inhabitants of the city used to attend mass before the cathedral was erected.

Try to see the Puerta de la Misericordia (Calle Palo Hincado just north of Calle Arzobispo Portes). Part of the original city wall, this "Gate of Mercy" was once a refuge for colonists fleeing hurricanes and earthquakes.

The Monastery of San Francisco is but a mere ruin, lit at night. That any part of it is still standing is a miracle; it was destroyed by earthquakes, pillaged by Drake, and bombarded by French artillery. To get here, go along Calle Hostos and across Calle Emiliano Tejera; continue up the hill, and about midway along you'll see the ruins.

You'll see a microcosm of Dominican life as you head east along Calle El Conde from Parque Independencia to Columbus Square (Plaza de Colón), which has a large bronze statue honoring the discoverer, made in 1882 by a French sculptor, and the Catedral de Santa María la Menor.

There are watersports kiosks about every 100 yards (91m) along the beach, any of which will rent you snorkeling gear and tell you the best spots for seeing fish. You can also rent sailboats, Windsurfers, and other watersports gear at any of the kiosks.

For a more active vacation than just hitting the beach, book one of the many tours offered by Ligia Tours, Calle Dr. Alejo Martínez (tel. 809/571-1038). Their best is a rafting experience near the village of Jarabacoa on the Rio Yaque in the mountains. Eco-sensitive and trendy, the tour costs $35 and lasts all day. Many exciting river rapids alternate with more tranquil sections in valleys and canyons. The price includes the Jeep safari, lunch, and drinks.

Gipsy Ranch, Carretera Sosua-Cabarete, opposite the Coconut Palm Resort (tel. 809/571-1373), is the region's largest and best-recommended riding stable, home to about 20 horses, which can be hired for equestrian treks of between 1 and 4 hours. You'll begin your experience at the stone corral about 4 1/2 miles (7km) from Sosúa and 3 miles (5km) from Cabarete. A 1-hour jaunt goes for US$16; a 4-hour excursion through forests and along beaches costs US$34. Reservations are strongly recommended.

Altos de Chavón: An Artist's Colony--In 1976 a plateau 100 miles (161km) east of Santo Domingo was selected by Charles G. Bluhdorn, then chairman of Gulf + Western Industries, as the site for a remarkable project. Dominican stonecutters, woodworkers, and ironsmiths began the task that would produce Altos de Chavón, a flourishing Caribbean art center set above the canyon of the Río Chavón and the Caribbean Sea.

A walk down one of the cobblestone paths of Altos de Chavón reveals architecture reminiscent of another era at every turn. Coral block and terra-cotta brick buildings house artists' studios, craft workshops, galleries, stores, and restaurants. Mosaics of black river pebbles, sun-bleached coral, and red sandstone spread out to the plazas. The Church of St. Stanislaus is the central attraction on the main plaza, with its fountain of the four lions, colonnade of obelisks, and panoramic views. Masses are conducted at this church every Saturday and Sunday at 5pm.

The School of Design at Altos de Chavón has offered a 2-year associate in applied science degree, in the areas of communication, fashion, environmental studies, product design, and fine arts/illustration, since its inauguration in 1982.

The galleries (tel. 809/523-8470) at Altos de Chavón offer an engaging mix of exhibits. In three distinct spaces--the Principal Gallery, the Rincón Gallery, and the Loggia--the work of well-known and emerging Dominican and international artists is showcased. The gallery has a consignment space where finely crafted silk-screen and other multiple works are available for sale. Exhibits change about every month.

Altos de Chavón's talleres are craft ateliers, where local artisans have been trained to produce ceramic, silk-screen, and woven-fiber products. From the clay apothecary jars with carnival devil lids to the colored tapestries of Dominican houses, the rich island folklore is much in evidence. The posters, note cards, and printed T-shirts that come from the silk-screen workshops are among the most sophisticated in the Caribbean. All the products of Altos de Chavón's talleres are sold at La Tienda (tel. 809/523-3333, ext. 5398), the foundation village store.

The Altos de Chavón Regional Museum of Archaeology (tel. 809/523-8554) houses the objects of Samuel Pion, an amateur archaeologist and collector of treasures from the vanished Taíno tribes, the island's first settlers. The timeless quality of some of the museum's objects makes them seem strangely contemporary in design--one discovers sculptural forms that recall the work of Brancusi or Arp. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 8pm. Entrance is free.

At the heart of the village's performing-arts complex is the 5,000-seat open-air amphitheater. Since its inauguration over a decade ago by the late Frank Sinatra and Carlos Santana, the amphitheater has hosted renowned concerts, symphonies, theater, and festivals, including concerts by Julio Iglesias and Gloria Estefan. The annual Heineken Jazz Festival has brought together such diverse talents as Dizzy Gillespie, Toots Thielmans, Randy Brecker, Shakira, Carlos Ponce, Carlo Vives, and Jon Secada.

The creations at Everett Designs (tel. 809/523-8331) are so original that many visitors mistake this place for a museum. Each piece of jewelry is handcrafted by Bill Everett in a mini-factory at the rear of the shop.

Set amid the winding cobble-covered alleyways of this pseudo-medieval village, Coco Point (tel. 809/523-8656) sells hand-painted T-shirts, swimsuits, sportswear from Dolce & Gabbana, cigars, and jewelry crafted from larimar and amber.

You can arrange freshwater river-fishing trips through Casa de Campo. Some of the biggest snook ever recorded have been caught around here. A 3-hour tour costs $31 per person, and includes tackle, bait, and whatever sodas you drink for liquid refreshment during the trip. A 4-hour deep-sea fishing trip costs $549 to $732 per boat, 8 hours going for $793 to $1,098.

La Minitas, Casa de Campo's main beach, and site of a series of bars and restaurants all its own, is a small but immaculate beach and lagoon that requires a 10-minute shuttle bus ride from the resort's central core. Transportation is provided on the bus, or you can rent an electric golf cart. A bit farther afield (a 30-min. bus ride, but only a 20-min. boat ride), Bayahibe is a large, palm-fringed sandy crescent on a point jutting out from the shoreline. Finally, Catalina is a fine beach on a deserted island, surrounded by turquoise waters; it's just 45 minutes away by motorboat. Unfortunately, many other visitors from Casa de Campo have learned of the glories of this latter retreat, so you're not likely to have the sands to yourself.

Cabarete, the best windsurfing resort destination in the Caribbean, is also home to the best windsurfing school, Carib Bic Center, Playa Cabarete (tel. 809/571-0640). It's devoted to teaching proper windsurfing techniques and to renting state-of-the-art equipment. Rental of equipment costs $45 a day, and instruction is given for $30 an hour.

Iguana Mama at Cabarete (tel. 809/571-0908) offers the best mountain biking and hiking. Going strong since 1993, it features a trek to Mount Isabel de Torres with experienced guides, lasting a full day and costing $65 per person. If enough people book, this tour is offered daily. Another trek involves a 3,000-foot (900m) downhill cruise with time for cycling down rolling hills, costing $40 per person and held only Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.

The best adventure tours are offered by Cabarete Tours (tel. 809/571-0505), which will take you on a day-long Jeep safari for $23 per person, exploring river banks, small caves, and a tropical rain forest. It can also take you deep-sea fishing, for $65 per angler. Finally, Gipsy Ranch (tel. 809/571-1373) is the most complete riding stable in the Dominican Republic; they'll take you horseback riding at a cost of $22 per person for 2 hours.


Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo, the seaside capital of the Dominican Republic, offers visitors a fascinating alternative to the typical Caribbean fare of sun, fun and beaches. As the oldest city in the New World, the colorful capital is a mélange of old and new, with buildings that are almost five centuries old standing just blocks away from high-rise hotels. The city's modern sector is impressive by any standards. Santo Domingo vibrates with a stirring vitality, and the feeling is contagious.

Though there are interesting sights throughout the city, the major historical attractions are concentrated in what is known as the Colonial Sector.

Its main thoroughfare is the Calle de las Damas ("Street of the Ladies"). Behind the name is a charming story. When Diego de Colón, the Great Admiral's son, was named Viceroy of the Indies in 1508, he arrived in Santo Domingo with a dazzling entourage of nobles and their wives. The local people, impressed by the pious grandeur of these European ladies, gave the street its current name.

The best place to begin a tour is at the Fortaleza de Santo Domingo, a 16th-century military complex built to guard the entrance to the Ozama River and the city. The fortress tower, known as the Tower of Homage, is haunted by legends and filled with history.

Next to the fortress is a prime example of a grand 16th-century colonial home. Solid and imposing on the outside, the House of Bastidas is delightfully spacious and inviting inside. The palatial structure was built for Rodrigo de Bastidas, the patriarch of one of the most influential families in the New World. Today the building houses several cultural institutions, including a library and a school.

For an interesting glimpse into the past, visitors should head to the former home of the founder of Santo Domingo, Fray Nicolas de Ovando. Located down the street from the House of Bastidas, the structure is a magnificent example of colonial architecture. The house--now a small, intimate hotel called Hostal Nicolas de Ovando--overlooks the Ozama River. It is tastefully decorated with period furniture and boasts the only Gothic-Isabelline portal in the Americas.

Nearby is the Capilla de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios ("Chapel of Our Lady of Remedies"). Originally, the chapel was part of a palatial 16th-century house built for the powerful Davila family. The house has since been annexed by the Hostal Nicolas de Ovando, but the tiny stone chapel remains intact. And directly across the Ozama River from there is the Chapel of the Rosary, the oldest church in the country, dating back to the 16th century.

Nearby is an early 18th-century Jesuit church that today serves as the National Pantheon. Within lie the remains of the Dominican Republic's greatest heroes, including General Pedro Santana, the five-time president of the republic. The interesting gargoyles adorning the facade of the 16th-century building next door are unique to the Dominican Republic. Known as the House of Gargoyles, the structure was originally the University of Santiago de la Paz; years later it was used as a residence for the Jesuit order. Today, the House of Gargoyles is home to the Institute of Hispanic Culture.

The remarkable Museum of the Royal Houses is located close by. The splendidly restored 16th-century complex originally housed the official headquarters for the government of the New World. In fact, replicas of the viceroy's throne room, as well as the old colonial courtrooms, can still be seen. The museum also contains several important collections, including detailed displays of the Dominican Republic's history from pre-Columbian times to the present.

At the end of Calle de las Damas, steps lead to the Alacazar de Colón, the imposing stone palace of Christopher Columbus' heir Diego and his wife. The Alcazar, an enormous Renaissance residence with various Moorish and Gothic-Isabelline accents, holds one of the most significant collections of period furniture in the Americas.

Near the Alcazar is the old entrance to the city from the port, the Gate of San Diego. Remnants of the old city walls can still be seen throughout Santo Domingo, including two other gates: the Gate of the Count and the Gate of Mercy.

Near the intersection of Calle de las Damas and El Conde Street is the Parque Colón, a charming plaza that was once the heart of colonial Santo Domingo. The plaza is dominated by a bronze statue of the Great Discoverer.

Adjacent to the park is the oldest cathedral in the New World and one of the most distinguished structures in the Colonial Sector. Construction of the Cathedral of Santo Domingo began in the early 16th century, and it was inaugurated in 1542. It is a stately structure with Gothic influences and a beautiful facade with ornamentation resembling a silver plate.

Located farther south on Padre Billini Street is the House of Tostado. A remarkable 16th-century Gothic-Isabelline window dominates the facade. Inside, there is an interesting display of domestic interiors that reflect styles throughout the history of the country.

The attractions on the modern side of Santo Domingo are not concentrated in a particular area as are the historical sights. To tour them, visitors will have to make plans to rent a car or hire a cab.

Tourists to the capital are always drawn to the city's main waterfront thoroughfare, El Malecón. High-rise hotels, restaurants, discos, shops and outdoor cafés line the popular boulevard, while just across the street are coconut palms and the blue Caribbean. At night, El Malecón is where everything happens in Santo Domingo.

The Plaza de la Cultura, set in a beautifully landscaped park, is the heart of the country's cultural life. The complex includes the Museum of the Dominican Man, the Natural History Museum, the National Library, the Museum of Modern Art and the National Theater.

Because the first European colonies in the New World were established in what is now the Dominican Republic, the country had a special interest in the commemoration of the Quincentennial, celebrated around the world throughout 1992. The apex of the celebration was the official lighting and dedication of the Columbus Memorial Lighthouse, located in the center of the Mirador del Este Park. The mammoth concrete-and-stone structure, in the shape of a crucifix, measures almost 800 feet in length; 149 powerful beams project the image of the cross onto the night sky, a dramatic apparition visible from hundreds of miles away.

Another popular attraction is the Tres Ojos de Agua ("Three Eyes of Water"), three spectacular underwater lagoons. Located along the Las Américas Highway, they constitute one of the most unique settings anywhere; several Tarzan movies were filmed there. Also worth a visit is the Acuario Nacional, a beautifully landscaped park whose highlights include giant turtles living in their natural habitat and glass-enclosed exhibits, where visitors can closely observe circling sharks. The aquarium is located in the Los Mameyes area. Nature lovers might also enjoy the Jardín Botánico and the Parque Zoológico Nacional, both located in the Arroyo Hondo neighborhood.

Side Trip from Santo Domingo

The main road to the southwestern region of the Dominican Republic is the Carretera Sanchez, a scenic highway that runs along the serpentine coastline from the capital to Barahona, yet another Dominican version of paradise.

The scenery there is striking. The mountains--replete with lush vegetation, rushing rivers and cascading waterfalls--drop down to the sea. Barahona's coast is an unbroken chain of gorgeous beaches; Bahoruco and Paraíso are among those for which the area is known.

Another of Barahona's attractions is Lago Enriquillo, a saltwater lake 144 feet below sea level. Saltier than the Caribbean Sea, Lake Enriquillo is the lowest spot in the Caribbean region. Rising from the center of the lake is the Parque Nacional Isla Cabritos ("Goat Island National Park"), a protected reserve for the endangered American crocodile. Visitors can stop in at the National Parks Department headquarters in Santo Domingo to make arrangements to visit the island.

To the east of Santo Domingo is a fast-developing area known as the Costa Caribe. The once-sleepy villages of Boca Chica, Juan Dolio and Guayacanes now offer visitors first-rate hotels and restaurants. The area is quite popular with European tourists, who like its casual village atmosphere.

The beauty of the Costa Caribe beaches is especially enticing given their proximity to Santo Domingo and the Las Américas International Airport. Sailing, diving and fishing enthusiasts are lured there by the sunken galleons, undersea gardens and offshore reefs, which present exciting conditions for divers and provide habitat for game fish.

Santiago
Santiago de los Caballeros is the Dominican Republic's second-largest city and its major industrial center. The traditionally progressive city is relatively new to the country's developing tourist scene, yet it might just be the Dominican Republic's best-kept secret.

The wonders of Santiago and its surroundings are best appreciated by driving there from Santo Domingo. The two-lane Carretera Duarte is the capital's gateway to the north, traversing some of the most pleasing landscapes in the country, including El Cibao Valley, La Vega Real and Jarabacoa.

The Carretera Duarte extends northwest from Santo Domingo to the port of Monte Cristi. Santiago, a thriving city of a quarter of a million people, is in the northern half of the country between the mountains and the sea.

Traveling to Santiago means crossing the country's legendary El Cibao Valley. The region gets its name from the Taíno word meaning heights or mountains, an appropriate name for an area containing several major mountain ranges. The Pico Duarte, at 10,417 feet, is the highest peak in the Caribbean Basin.

The Cibao Valley is also the source of the Dominican Republic's principal rivers, as well as the only ecosystem in the Caribbean with alpine characteristics. The refreshing and cool forests of the Valle Nuevo in the Constanza Valley belie the heat of the tropics. Nearby rustic Jarabacoa offers a similar experience.

Another wonderful stop on the journey to Santiago is La Vega Real. The natural beauty of the area so impressed Columbus that years later he would ask to be buried here.

After La Vega, the Carretera Duarte leads to Santiago, the first city to be so named in the Americas. Dominating the skyline is the impressive Monument of the Restoration of the Republic, a white marble structure that rises some 220 feet. The monument houses an exceptional collection of murals by Vela Zanetti and offers a grand view of the sprawling city below.

What the city may lack in size and sophistication, it makes up for in provincial charm. Narrow streets filled with cars, sidewalks spilling over with colorful merchandise displayed on tables and racks, street vendors selling candied fruits, an occasional horse-drawn cart--these elements make Santiago what it is.

Architecturally, the city is a jewel. Almost every street offers at least one or two colonial-style buildings. They are easily recognized by their large windows with wood or wrought-iron bars, as well as their narrow-tiled porticos. Many of the city's older homes reflect a definite Victorian influence in their gingerbread style. Photographers will have a field day capturing not only the variety of styles but the fanciful colors in which these buildings are painted.

The best way to get around Santiago is on foot. However, a ride through the city in a horse-drawn carriage affords the luxury of seeing the sights in a comfortable, relaxed manner.

The Catedral de Santiago Apostol is a good beginning point. The imposing 19th-century structure blends Gothic and neoclassical elements and contains a magnificent altar of carved mahogany. The building dominates a small plaza, Parque Duarte, where locals gather for casual conversation.

Also of interest is the Tomas Morel Museum of Folkloric Art. It houses a fine collection of popular arts and crafts by Dominican artists as well as a splendid selection of Santiago's famous carnival masks.

The Museum of the City of Santiago is located in a striking 19th-century palace. On display is an interesting compilation of historical documents, artifacts and exhibits illustrating the city's fascinating history.

The Tobacco Museum provides insight into the history of the tobacco industry in Santiago. Tobacco has been cultivated there since pre-Columbian times. In fact, it was there that the Spaniards discovered the subtle pleasures of a good cigar.

The rum distilleries also attract their share of the tourist trade. All the major rum manufacturers based in Santiago offer tours of their plants. The visits are not only enlightening but also uplifting, since the highlight of these tours is the sampling of different kinds of rum. Needless to say, they are very popular tours.

Puerto Plata

A cable-car ride up Mount Isabel de Torres, 2,565 feet above sea level, is good orientation to Puerto Plata. There, at the foot of the colossal statue of Christ the Redeemer (reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro's Corcovado), is a sensational view of the city and its surroundings. At the base of the statue is the Centro Artesanal ("Crafts Center"), a shopping arcade that sells local arts and crafts.

Downtown, the outstanding feature of "old" Puerto Plata is the strong influence of late-Victorian styles on its architecture and design. Quaint gingerbread houses, their white fences aflame with bougainvillea, and the newly restored Gazebo in the central square of Independence Park, hark back to more lyrical times.

Walking through the center of town, visitors will come upon the resplendent white towers of the Church of San Felipe. Though a rather simple structure, the church has a provincial appeal that is quite unique.

Nearby is The Amber Museum, an outstanding example of Victorian architecture. The museum houses some of the most remarkable specimens of amber, the designated national gem.

Not to be missed is the Fort of San Felipe, an imposing stone fortress dating back to the 16th century. Built to ward off attacks by French and English pirates and later used as a prison for political dissidents, the fort is today a museum haunted by legends and filled with interesting memorabilia of the city's past. At night, it is outlined in a dazzling display of lights.

Just beyond the fort is the General Gregorio Luperón Monument. General Luperón was one of the Dominican Republic's greatest heroes; in 1879, under his leadership, the country was reorganized and set on the road to economic recovery.

Sosúa

Just 16 winding miles east of Puerto Plata, nestled on a hillside, is the enchanting village of Sosúa. There, the fast pace of modern life comes to a screeching halt, giving way to the subtleties of shading palms and sunset breezes. The seacoast town is situated on a sheltered cove that forms a lovely beach.

Sosúa is actually two villages straddling the bay: Los Charamicos to the west and El Batey to the east. A walk from one end to the other is easy enough, and many of the early settlement buildings still remain. The original synagogue is open for weekly services and welcomes visitors of all faiths.

Los Charamicos has a typical Dominican village atmosphere, complete with lively Creole restaurants and bars, street vendors, loud music and cackling hens. El Batey is the hub of Sosúa's tourist activities. It is home to upscale restaurants, bars and boutiques; it's also where Sosúa's luxurious resort hotels and vacation villas are located. There's a significant expatriate community in that part of town.

Side Trip from Sosúa

For those who love the colors and exuberance of naïf art, a side trip to Samaná offers a glimpse of the real thing. Coconut-palm covered hills fringe the coastline, and the bay is dotted with tiny, idyllic keys. The most famous is Cayo Levantado, accessible by boat and noted for its magnificent beach. Officially called Santa Bárbara de Samaná, it was the site of the first battle between the indigenous peoples and the European explorers in 1493. The city itself, however, was not founded until 1756. There was an influx of freed black slaves from the United States in the 1820s. As a result, the locals there speak English--with the slight drawl of the American South.

Samaná is an excellent location for diving and a favorite spot for treasure hunters. Deep in the waters off Samaná, divers have found some of the most valuable treasures ever recovered from Spanish galleons. The incredible loot from one of these finds--the Conde de Tolosa--can be viewed at the Museum of the Royal Houses in Santo Domingo.

Sailing, windsurfing and deep-sea fishing are also popular in Samaná's waters. But Samaná's drawing power is its relative remoteness from the more frequented tourist destinations. It is the perfect getaway; the Samaná peninsula's isolated beaches, including Anadel, Rincón and Miches, offer unparalleled beauty, tranquillity and privacy. There are several hotels in and around the village center, as well as a few new resorts just outside town.

La Romana

Once a sleepy cattle and sugarcane settlement, La Romana is now home to one of the world's most fabulous resorts. Although La Romana can be visited on a day trip from the capital, a few days are necessary to really do it justice.

Casa de Campo is La Romana's most impressive sight--its hotel and villa accommodations and endless leisure facilities are spread over 7,000 acres of lush terrain on the Caribbean coast. The resort--partly designed by Miami architect William Cox--boasts ultra-chic interiors decorated with the help of Dominican designer Oscar de la Renta, and beautifully landscaped gardens and grounds.

Minutes away from the resort buildings but still part of the Casa de Campo complex is Altos de Chavón, an exact replica of a 16th-century Mediterranean village, perched on the cliffs above the Chavón River. The village, hand-constructed in 1978 by local artisans under the direction of Italian set designer Roberto Copa, serves as both a living museum and an artists' colony, providing a picturesque setting in which artists live, study and work. The Church of St. Stanislaus is at the center of the village; it was named after the patron saint of Poland in tribute to Pope John Paul II, who visited the island in 1979 and left some of the saint's ashes behind. Nearby is the Regional Museum of Archaeology, which houses a collection of Taíno artifacts.

There are three major art galleries in the village, showcasing the works of Dominican, European and American artists. Throughout the winding cobblestone streets are smaller galleries where visitors can learn macramé, jewelry making, print making and other crafts or buy the finished products.

Side Trip from La Romana

Inland from La Romana and to the east is the historic city of Higüey. Founded in 1505, it is the site of the first church in the New World dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The sect devoted to the Virgin of Altagracia originated here, and the monumental basilica that houses her shrine stands on the outskirts of the city.

Located beyond Higüey, on the easternmost shore of the Dominican Republic, Punta Cana is the site of the Caribbean's longest stretch of white-sand beach--20 glorious miles lined with coconut palms and other trees. The sparkling hideaway, now served by the Punta Cana International Airport, is under continual development. It is already the home of several world-famous resorts.

One of the best, the Punta Cana Beach Resort boasts its own white-sand crystalline beaches shaded by luxuriant primitive tropical vegetation. Its amenities include every kind of water-sports facility, as well as horseback riding, bicycling and tennis; there is also a restaurant, a beach club and a disco.

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